Jaeger LeCoultre does not approach vintage through nostalgia. With the fifth chapter of The Collectibles, the manufacture treats its past as a living archive, carefully edited, restored and reintroduced with intent.
This latest capsule brings together eight exceptionally rare Reverso timepieces dating back to the earliest years of the model’s existence. These are not reinterpretations or tributes. They are original watches, sourced globally, restored with period correct components and presented as historical artefacts that still function as timekeepers.
Unveiled at the brand’s Madison Avenue flagship in New York, the collection reflects more than a year of meticulous work by the maison’s heritage department. Each piece was selected not for surface beauty, but for authenticity, condition and historical relevance.
Why Early Reversos Are Exceptionally Rare
Reverso production in its original era was brief and limited. Introduced in 1931 and produced only until the early 1940s, the model was initially designed for British army officers playing polo in India. Durability was a selling point, not preservation.
As a result, surviving examples often bear the marks of real use. Finding pieces that remain structurally intact, mechanically sound and visually uncompromised is extraordinarily difficult even for the manufacture itself.
For this collection, restoration did not mean reconstruction. The watches were returned to working order using historically accurate components, respecting original materials, finishes and tolerances. The goal was fidelity, not perfection.
Highlights That Define the Collection
Among the eight pieces, several stand out as historical markers. One two tone Reverso, executed in yellow gold paired with Staybrite alloy, is believed to be the first dual metal watch ever produced by the brand. At the time, early stainless steel was difficult to machine, making Staybrite a practical and durable alternative.
Another remarkable example features a black dial with warm toned numerals and hands. Estimated to be among the very first Reversos ever made, it represents a period when production numbers likely did not exceed a few hundred units annually. Its unengraved case back leaves space for future personal history.
A 1937 Reverso marks a turning point in the brand’s identity. It is among the earliest examples to carry the full Jaeger LeCoultre signature, symbolizing the formal union between Edmond Jaeger and LeCoultre & Cie. The dial construction alone reflects a level of manual craftsmanship that would be prohibitively expensive to replicate today.
Women’s Reversos and Forgotten Elegance
The collection also includes rare early women’s Reverso models, often overlooked in vintage discourse. One petite example from the early 1930s pairs a Staybrite case with a chrome cord bracelet and vividly preserved blued hands.
Its proportions, materials and execution suggest that even in its earliest years, the Reverso was never conceived as a single narrative object. It adapted quietly to different wrists, lifestyles and cultural moments.
The Hunt as Heritage
Many of the watches were sourced through small auction houses, private estates and discreet dealer networks, often in France and the United Kingdom. The process values patience over predictability.
With demand for early Reversos steadily increasing, availability continues to shrink. Most pieces in this release are already spoken for and will enter private collections, though all remain on public display at the New York flagship until late February.
The VOGGIA Perspective
The Collectibles is not a commercial exercise. It is a statement of continuity.
By presenting its earliest Reversos without embellishment or reinterpretation, Jaeger LeCoultre reinforces the idea that true modernity comes from understanding origin rather than rewriting it.
These watches do not chase relevance. They remind us where relevance begins.
